Like all art forms, there is not a ‘perfect’ or right way to cut hair. Every stylist and barber will see the ideal end differently, though there are some basic skills and principals that all of them use. With the basic skills under control as well as good technical skill, one should be able to retain male clients in their hair salon.
Wet Versus Dry
If you’re clipping or blending hair, it needs to be done dry. If the hair is wet, it can be hard to see the lines you are creating and to predict how hair will lie when dry. However, if you are using razors or shears, wet the hair.
Cross checking is an essential component of a hair cut. It is important that the hair is cut evenly and proportionally. For a short cut, check all blending and tapering lines in a mirror. You may be able to see more by stepping back a few feet in good light.
If you want to avoid demarcation lines in blending, try going through the anchor sequence during clipper work.If you start with the clipper’s entire flat surface of the blade against the head.From there, pivot the clipper, allowing the heel of the blade to touch. Next, freehand suspend the clipper as it moves up from the hair to create a smooth transition.
Blending and the Clipper Over Comb Technique
One way to blend between clipper work and shears is to use the clipper over comb method with a detachable blade clipper fitted with a large blade. This will allow the client a smooth blend as the hair will be trimmed at an even length.Avoid short blades as they give a blunt cut.
Using a Hair Cutting Razor
Blending can be done with a standard straight razor. Rake the hair with the razor at a forty-five degree angle, which is very important to manage exactly how much hair is removed. The Roffler schools made this technique popular and it is not recommended that you try it unless you have received proper training. For this blending, the hair must be quite wet.
Another way to blend is to use the blending shears over the comb. If you lift the hair with a comb, use the blending shears on the last 1/4 inch of hair. While the hair is lifted, slightly over direct before cutting for a smooth blend. Make sure that you only cut the last quarter to eighth of an inch of hair. Avoid thinning close to the scalp to avoid a fuzzy look. You can use thinning shears with at least forty teeth to avoid lines and blunt cuts.
A guarded razor or shear-point technique gives a haircut texture. These techniques cut the ends of hair in obviously different lengths by stripping the hair at different lengths. One should pull the hair between razor and thumb at an angle, then use a ‘scoop’ motion. Texture is good in haircuts that are spiked or disheveled.
Finish It Up!
Often, stylists will spend much time ensuring that a haircut is even, blended, and textured if necessary, though they will then lack on finishing the haircut. A great haircut can be made terrible by bad finishing. One needs to make sure that the lines are tidy and clean. The haircut may benefit from a slight tapering near the bottom edges. For sideburns, one needs to stand in front of the customer to ensure that they are even, as well as the bangs.
One needs to take the client in mind prior to tapering or blocking the neckline. A tapered cut slims out a wide neck and looks tidier as the hair grows. For blocked haircuts, the hair on the neck grows out below the block, leaving them with a hair line. Blocking balances out slim necks, though it needs to be done as low on the neck as possible.
Guards for Clippers
Many stylists are against clipper guards, arguing that anyone can use a guard for a haircut. However, many clients simply cannot get the same quality of haircut that a professional stylist will be able to achieve.
If you do use guards, there are a few techniques to keep in mind. You need to follow the suspend technique against the growth line. Try to avoid cutting at angles due to the lines of demarcation that this causes when a guard is used. With a guard, you also need to go over the hair a few times to ensure even cutting without forcing the hair into the blade. Try to comb the hair prior to each cutting stroke and avoid guards that allow hair to be longer than a 1/2 inch, as clippers are not effective at that point.
These are just a few of the possible hair cutting techniques that professional stylists use. Though there is no right or wrong way for hair cuts, a few tips, tricks, and techniques will leave you with a happy customer.
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